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Article · Sunday, September 6, 2026

Specialty coffee · Worth knowing

One thing happening in the world of Specialty coffee today, written for an enthusiast — not a beginner. Skip celebrity gossip. Focus on craft, gear, results, interesting characters, or a small story I'd actually tell a friend over coffee. Quality over quantity.

By Marius BongartsOther65 editions
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Specialty coffee · Worth knowing
Sunday, September 6, 2026
Specialty coffee · Worth knowing

Fermentation labs meet farm, Centroamericano rises

1 min read

Aquiares' Anaerobic Honey

Sealed tanks are turning fermentation into engineering.

Aquiares Estate in Costa Rica is running Centroamericano through anaerobic honey processing—whole cherries sit in a sealed tank with mosto, temperature and pH monitored twice daily for 2–4 days until reaching pH 4.3, then washed and dried in a micro-lot Guardiola [Quelle: Ally Coffee]. Under Diego Robelo's leadership, the estate has become a laboratory for what happens when you treat fermentation not as a side effect but as the primary flavor variable. Centroamericano itself—a newer variety gaining traction in specialty—thrives under this precision, unlocking clarity and complexity most producers miss.

This is how craft scales: controlled variables, measurable outputs, repeatable excellence.

Carbonic Maceration in Buenavista

A fifth-generation farm just rewrote its own playbook.

Sara Gutierrez in Buenavista, Colombia chose fermentation risk over commodity safety—her Yellow Colombia variety sits in CO₂-rich whole-cherry fermentation for 96 hours, producing layered complexity and vibrant fruit that reads silky and refined on the cupping table [Quelle: El Parche]. Rather than chase the cost-cutting margins that define legacy family farms, she's betting the cup expression—dark chocolate, plum, cherry clarity—will justify premium pricing. Carbonic maceration shifts the game from yield-per-hectare thinking into cup-forward design.

Watch what other Huila producers try next.

Why Colombian Fermentation Matters Now

Colombia's best producers are abandoning tradition for precision.

Continuing the Colombian fermentation frontier we flagged yesterday, the pattern across Aquiares and Buenavista shows a single shift: fermentation moved from processing choice into intentional flavor design. Both estates measure, monitor, and engineer microbial environments—Aquiares tracks pH twice daily, Gutierrez isolates CO₂ for exact timing. This convergence signals that specialty's next five years will reward producers who treat fermentation like equipment choice, not like a byproduct of drying.

The roasters buying these lots are already cupping the difference.

Sources
Aquiares Estate – Centroamericano – Anaerobic Honey - Ally Coffee
Aquiares Estate – Centroamericano – Anaerobic Honey - Ally Coffee
21 hours ago ... ... innovation. Mariana is an F1 hybrid cultivar closely related to ... This lot of Centroamericano coffee underwent Anaerobic Honey processing. The ...
allycoffee.com
AI Summary

This lot of Centroamericano coffee from Aquiares Estate underwent Anaerobic Honey processing, an innovative fermentation technique where fully ripe cherries are mechanically de-pulped and then placed in a sealed plastic tank with mosto to create an anaerobic environment. Temperature and pH are monitored twice daily during fermentation, which continues for approximately 2–4 days until the coffee reaches a pH of 4.3, after which it is washed and dried in a micro-lot Guardiola dryer. Under Diego Robelo's leadership, Aquiares has become a trailblazer in specialty coffee through excellent agricultural management, embracing new varieties like the Centroamericano, and experimenting with innovative processing methods, while also serving as a model for sustainable, equitable production in the broader specialty coffee industry.

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Sara Gutierrez - Single Origin - COLOMBIA – El Parche
Sara Gutierrez - Single Origin - COLOMBIA – El Parche
18 hours ago ... Whole coffee cherries are fermented in a carefully controlled, CO₂-rich ... innovation of the process and the unique character of the variety. ORIGIN ...
elparche.com.au
AI Summary

Sara Gutierrez from Buenavista, Colombia has transformed her family's fifth-generation coffee farm by pursuing specialty coffee innovation rather than traditional cost-cutting methods. Her Yellow Colombia variety is processed using carbonic maceration, where whole cherries ferment in a CO₂-rich environment for 96 hours to develop exceptional clarity, layered complexity, and vibrant fruit-forward flavours. This processing technique produces a remarkably expressive cup with refined sweetness, silky mouthfeel, and bright finish, demonstrating how experimentation and risk-taking in fermentation methods can challenge industry traditions and create world-class specialty coffee recognized on the cupping table.

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Compiled overnight by MorningMail.aiDelivered at 10:25 PM