Climbing · Worth knowing

Many climbers undermine their progress by training too hard and taking insufficient rest, contrary to common misconceptions. Research shows athletes can maintain strength for up to 32 weeks with just one training session per week, and taking a week off doesn't cause meaningful strength loss in relatively young and healthy climbers. Expert climbing coaches recommend structuring training across three intensities—restoration, retention (moderate-intensity skills practice), and development (high-intensity work)—with 24 to 72 hours of recovery between significant training loads. Most climbers should spend approximately 75 percent of training time on retention-level technique work rather than developmental exercises like campusing or hangboarding. Elite climbers like Jonathan Siegrist, Alex Honnold, and Paige Claassen actually take two to three rest days per week, contradicting the assumption that pros train constantly at maximum intensity. True rest days should involve only light activity like relaxed walking at conversational intensity, not active exercise like hiking or trail running, as full recovery is superior for performance gains.