Climbing · Worth knowing

Krzysztof Sas-Nowosielski, a 50-year-old climber who hadn't achieved an 8b+ grade in a decade, recently completed Soft Power 8b+ at Apteka. His training approach combines sports science expertise with practical adaptation to limited climbing time due to work commitments. After experiencing reduced performance during pandemic lockdowns when training was restricted to hangboard work, he modified his home setup by adding a board with screwed-on holds to enable dynamic reaching movements. He incorporated velocity-based training principles using a linear transducer to monitor movement speed, focusing on power output and rate of force development—factors that decline with age. These adjustments enabled him to progress through VI.6 (8b) difficulties on Polish limestone, which features vertical slabs requiring strong fingers and precise footwork. Sas-Nowosielski emphasizes that sustained passion for climbing over his 30+ year climbing life has been the most significant factor in his continued progression and motivation.

Slovenian climber Janja Garnbret made history on June 6, 2026, by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Céüse, France, and only the second woman ever to confirm an ascent of a 9b+ sport climb—one grade below the world's hardest. The 27-year-old, who is chasing her 50th World Cup gold medal after recent silver finishes at the Pro Climbing League and World Cup in China, discovered that conquering this legendary 35-meter limestone route required a fundamentally different mental approach than her competition-focused career. Garnbret learned that patience, not pure strength, was key to overcoming Bibliographie's two crux sections and unpredictable outdoor conditions at 2000m altitude; the successful send came unexpectedly during what she thought would be a warm-up attempt, after weeks of repeated failures forced her to confront her perfectionist tendencies and embrace commitment to a long-term project rather than her typical quick-success mentality.

Andi Fichtner achieved her first 8A+ on Happy Camper in Frankenjura, progressing from her first 8A in 2019, demonstrating continued improvement through bouldering on natural rock and applying competitive experience to outdoor climbing. Loic Zehani, 19, completed the first ascent of Little Fish 9a+ in Orgon in a single session, adding to his tally of 32 routes graded 9a to 9b with 19 first ascents. Luca Bana sent Moonlanding 9a at Passo della Presolana, a challenging 30-meter line requiring endurance through an 8c+ section into a difficult traverse. Andrea Chelleris, the Italian Slalom Champion, achieved his first 9a on Pure Dreaming in Arco at age 12 after 19 attempts, combining competitive slalom training with climbing at his home wall during the pandemic. Anak Verhoeven, transitioning from competition climbing, completed La prophétie des grenouilles 9a in Fournel after rupturing a pulley, working the route over 4.5 sessions and sending it on her first redpoint attempt despite challenging weather conditions and limited time in France.