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Artikel · Sonntag, 26. Juli 2026

Climbing · Worth knowing

One thing happening in the world of Climbing today, written for an enthusiast — not a beginner. Skip celebrity gossip. Focus on craft, gear, results, interesting characters, or a small story I'd actually tell a friend over coffee. Quality over quantity.

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Climbing · Worth knowing
Sonntag, 26. Juli 2026
Climbing · Worth knowing

Nakata's double sealed, South Korea medals hard, route-setting questioned

1 Min. Lesezeit

Nakata completes the youth sweep

Kazuki Nakata just won the youth climbing double.

Following his lead win two days ago, Nakata topped all four U17 men's boulders with a commanding 99.3 points, extending a streak that sharpened through the final rounds in Arco [Source: World Climbing]. Japan's Taketo Saiki and Haku Ishida locked the next two spots—a sweep that confirms the pipeline Japan has built at the youth level is firing on all cylinders right now.

Three golds in 48 hours makes Nakata the name to watch as he ages into seniors.

South Korea medals across disciplines

South Korea's youth team finished Arco with two golds and four silvers-or-better.

Jung Chan-jin took gold in U19 men's lead, then backed it up with silver in U19 men's boulder—a statement of range [Source: Star News Korea]. Park Beom-jin edged him by 0.3 points in the boulder final with a winning score of 84.5, while Kim Ha-bin and Lee Ha-yul collected silvers in the girls' and boys' lead events respectively. The spread across lead, boulder, and speed suggests South Korea is no longer a one-discipline threat—it's building depth.

That diversity will matter when these climbers hit the senior circuit in 18 months.

World Cup route-setting draws heat

Chamonix's Lead World Cup finals revealed a route-setting problem.

Marcello Bombardi won the men's event after topping a route that 22 men had already topped in qualification—a new IFSC record since 1989 [Source: 8a.nu]. Janja Garnbret cruised the women's final by similar margins, finishing so far ahead of second-place Jain Kim that the difficulty felt soft. Judges acknowledged the critique afterward—too many tops signal routes that missed the mark for elite finals, turning climbers' strong performances into a referendum on the walls themselves.

The IFSC will likely tighten the difficulty window before the next stop.

Italian climber breaks into the 9a grade

Twenty-one-year-old Iacopo Perelli Cazzola sent Coup de Grace in seven days.

The Sonlerto route marks Perelli Cazzola's first ascent at 9a after transitioning from competitive juniors through alpinism and back to structured sport climbing [Source: 8a.nu]. He described the pitch as endurance-heavy with a brutal crux and quick final moves before the pump sets in. Injury and wet weather stretched the project psychologically, but the ascent signals a climber integrating competition discipline with mental resilience built in the mountains.

The unconventional path—juniors, mountains, then back to sport—is starting to produce climbers with a different kind of edge.

Quellen
World Climbing Youth Championship Arco 2026 | World Climbing
World Climbing Youth Championship Arco 2026 | World Climbing
22 hours ago ... Official website of World Climbing. Find athletes, rankings, results, news, photos, and videos.
worldclimbing.com
KI-Zusammenfassung

Kazuki Nakata of Japan topped the U17 Men's lead climbing competition at the World Climbing Youth Championship in Arco 2026, scoring 1.87 points. Taketo Saiki from Japan finished second with 2.65 points, followed by fellow Japanese climber Haku Ishida in third place with 3.54 points. The results show strong performances from Japanese competitors, with multiple athletes ranking in the top positions, alongside competitors from South Korea, the Czech Republic, the United States, France, and other nations.

Quelle öffnen
Korean sport climbing future shines bright! Two gold, three silver ...
Korean sport climbing future shines bright! Two gold, three silver ...
17 hours ago ... The Republic of Korea's youth national team in sport climbing secured two gold medals, three silver medals, and one bronze medal at the World Championships.
starnewskorea.com
KI-Zusammenfassung

South Korea's youth national sport climbing team won two gold medals, three silver medals, and one bronze medal at the 2026 Arco World Climbing Youth Championship held in Italy from July 18-25. Jung Chan-jin claimed gold in the U19 men's lead event and silver in U19 men's boulder, while Park Beom-jin won gold in U19 men's boulder with a score of 84.5 points, just 0.3 points ahead of Jung Chan-jin. Kim Ha-bin secured silver in U17 women's lead, Lee Ha-yul earned silver in U17 men's lead and bronze in U17 men's boulder, demonstrating South Korea's competitive strength in international youth sport climbing competitions across lead, boulder, and speed disciplines.

Quelle öffnen
768 - Vertical-Life | Climbing Community & News - Find, Log & Share
768 - Vertical-Life | Climbing Community & News - Find, Log & Share
6 hours ago ... France's Oriane Bertone, last year's World Cup winner, is the new European Bouldering Champion. France dominated the competition, placing three climbers in the ...
8a.nu
KI-Zusammenfassung

Moritz Welt completed his first 9a route, Der heilige Gral in Frankenjura, after previously climbing Masters of the Universe 8c(+) on his second attempt. Markus Jung sent his third 9a, Black Label, also in Frankenjura, describing it as a solid climb that felt harder than the grade. Adam Ondra made progress on his Project Hard 9c in Flatanger by linking the entire route without the first 20 meters. At the Lead World Cup in Chamonix, Marcello Bombardi won the men's final by topping the route fastest against three other climbers who also topped, including Keiichiro Korenaga in second. Janja Garnbret dominated the women's final, cruising with ease and finishing well ahead of Jain Kim in second. However, both finals drew criticism for poor route setting, with unusually high numbers of tops suggesting the routes were too easy—22 men topped both qualification routes, a new IFSC record since 1989, and similar critique applied to the women's competition.

Quelle öffnen
3 - Vertical-Life | Climbing Community & News - Find, Log & Share
3 - Vertical-Life | Climbing Community & News - Find, Log & Share
17 hours ago ... Team Japan got another gold at the Youth World Championships in Arco when Kazuki Nakata won the U-17 in Boulder, his second gold after also winning in Lead. In ...
8a.nu
KI-Zusammenfassung

Iacopo Perelli Cazzola completed Coup de Grace (9a) in Sonlerto after seven days of projecting, marking his first ascent at the grade. The 21-year-old Italian climber described the route as one of the most beautiful pitches he's encountered, noting its predominantly endurance-based nature with a physically demanding crux section and quick final moves to avoid pump. He cited injury and persistent wet weather as significant challenges during the project, emphasizing the psychological difficulty of the ascent. Perelli Cazzola, who transitioned from competitive junior climbing on the Italian Cup circuit to alpinism before returning to sport climbing with structured training, views this milestone as part of a long-term progression at the 9a level that prioritizes integrating competition discipline with mountain-developed mental resilience.

Quelle öffnen
Über Nacht zusammengestellt von MorningMail.aiZugestellt um 23:47